Ceratophora

We will detail the care of the genus that has allowed us to be highly successful with them here. We will occasionally offer our own USCB specimens from the genus for sale, which will be found in the 'Other species' collection.
For a more detailed, printable care sheet, click here.

Background:

Ceratophora are a truly entertaining genus to keep. We currently work with Ceratophora tennentii and C. stoddartii, the leaf-nose and rhino-nose lizards, respectively. There are five species total in the genus; C. aspera, C. erdeleni, C. karu, C. stoddartii, and C. tennentii . It is worth noting that this genus is one now protected under CITES (as of CoP18 in 2019), with C. aspera and C. stoddartii being listed under CITES Appendix II, and the other three species under Appendix I. We point this out so that interested individuals are aware to ensure any animals they get are genuinely captive bred, as all species have a zero export quota from their native habitat in Sri Lanka, where they have also been protected from export for commercial purposes since 1993, when Sri Lanka's Flora and Fauna Protection Ordinance (FFPO) was amended to include many of the island's endemic lizard species. 
Many species within the genus have been successfully bred in Europe for years, though not often made available. However, there have been a handful of occasions for legal imports into the US. The founding stock we started our groups with were EUCB specimens imported in March 2019 for C. tennentii, and September 2019 for C. stoddartii


Care:

These animals tend to spend a lot of time clinging to vertical perches (tree trunks, branches, shrubs, etc) in the lower portions of the forests. Their longer rear legs make them well suited for jumping between nearby perches, or quickly getting to higher ground. As a minimum for a pair or trio, we suggest at least an 18" x 18" x 24" enclosure. We currently house ours in 24" cubes and they utilize every bit of their enclosures. Ample climbing surfaces are important for them to feel secure. They are bold animals, but still need to be able to safely retreat when they please. We utilize 3-4 vertical branches mounted in the enclosure, two horizontal perches, and plant growth as well. 


Temperatures and humidity:
We keep ours under the same ambient conditions as our other cloud forest-dwelling species- ambient humidity in the room being constantly ~55%, and ambient temperatures around 72-76F depending on time of day.

Temperatures within the enclosures keep close with ambient, though right near their lights offers a warmer zone that hovers around 82-84F. They do occasionally utilize this zone, but not often or for extended periods. 

Humidity within the enclosures should remain around 60-65% , with some peaks around 85-90% when misting or fogging. Misting should be done lightly at least once daily, and heavily every 2-3 days, depending on your ambient humidity levels in your area. Hydration is critical for these animals, and like many agamids, they will very rarely drink standing water. They require surface agitation/movement to acknowledge the water, so a bubbler in a water source, a moving water feature (such as a waterfall), or a dripping system are necessary. 


Nutrition:

They are insectivores, so they do not eat the meal replacement diets such as Pangea or Repashy. They do have quite fast metabolisms, so we offer ours insects 3-4 times a week. Typically 1/2"-5/8" crickets for adults, and pinhead- 1/4"  crickets for younger animals. We do like to offer dietary enrichment for them, and also occasionally offer slugs, snails, flies, etc., all of which we culture here so we have control over their nutritional value.

We do keep them housed under UVB, and also supplement their insects 3-4 times a month with calcium with low Vitamin D3 content, and most other feedings are supplemented with light vitamin dusting. 
 

Breeding:
We don't do anything special to get ours breeding. Our entire room goes through seasons, with reduced misting and shortened photoperiods, but breeding behavior and eggs haven't necessarily correlated with those shifts. They will bury their eggs. A trend we have noticed with all of our females is 'decoy nests'; in which a female will dig 2-3 spots and not cover them, but will cover the spot where she has laid very well. Once they start laying, females will lay clutches of multiple eggs (average clutch size for our group has been 8) every 4-6 weeks. We incubate eggs on flourite that is mixed with water at a roughly 2:1 ratio (Flourite: H2O) by weight, with no ventilation in the incubation chamber aside from opening it about once a week for fresh air exchange. Incubation temperatures should be low 70s (F), with night time drops at least a few degrees. Day temps of ~73F and night drops to ~67F have worked great for us, and giving incubation periods averaging 95 days for eggs which do not undergo a diapause. We have had clutches undergo diapause for 1-2 months, when laid in months with shortened photoperiods.  

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